I like knitting, math, and uplifting the proletariat.

Old account: @[email protected] (if lemmy.one hasn’t died yet)

  • 0 Posts
  • 37 Comments
Joined 2 years ago
Cake day: August 5th, 2024
  • Remy Rose@piefed.socialto3DPrinting@lemmy.world•I need some advice - Entina Tina2English
    4·
    8 days ago

    I definitely don’t like the looks of it, from the fact they don’t list any specs whatsoever to the claiming “it’s got AI!” or whatever. The last brand of printers I’ve seen that looked this shady had vendor lock-in SO BAD that, when the company went under, all the printers they sold got kind of soft bricked.

    However, I’m assuming you’re looking at the ~$180 base model? At that price, veryy little else exists, admittedly…

    I think Creality’s cheapest printer is probably like $20 more, but if you can swing it, that’s what I’d go with. For the following reasons:

    • They actually tell you exactly what goes in the thing.
    • There’s a very strong aftermarket repairs/mods scene built up around them.
    • There are entire projects built around converting cheap Crealities into other things, for if you outgrow it.
    • It’s like the closest you can get to no vender lock-in without building/buying an open source one.
  • Remy Rose@piefed.socialto3DPrinting@lemmy.world•Best Way to Create STL from ImagesEnglish
    4·
    8 days ago

    Like others have said, if you’re just trying to make a raised version of a simple flat design, that’s easy. Ideally convert it to a vector first, and then import it into just about any CAD software. Even TinkerCAD can do that.

    If it’s more of a real 3d object, i.e. varies across a few dimensions, first consider how complicated it is. As long as there aren’t too many organic curves, the best route might be to take careful measurements and recreate it from scratch in CAD.

    Finally, if none of those options are possible, it’s time for photogrammetry. Mix up a simple solution of isopropyl and zinc oxide (or anything talc-like i guess, I dunno), and use a quality sprayer bottle to speckle your object with it. Try to illuminate the object well from only a single source. If you can, pick up some cheap cross polarizing filters, use one on the light source and one on the camera. Take shots at the same distance from as many angles as you can, covering the whole object, ideally with a matte background. As mentioned, Meshroom is pretty decent at turning such a photoset into a decent object, but it does rely on you having a reasonably powerful PC. Alternatively, OpenScan offers a free cloud based option. (They’re also just very cool people who do lotttsss of other stuff, my makerspace just built one of their “Mini” rigs. Works great btw!!)

  • Remy Rose@piefed.socialto3DPrinting@lemmy.world•springy / hard elastic fillament reccommendationsEnglish
    7·
    1 month ago

    Polypropylene, hands down. Most plastic thingies that’re meant to bend constantly without wearing out are PP. Like those little straw caps attached to big drink tumblers? The bendy part, if not the whole hinge, is usually PP i think. I think generally things that could be described as “living hinges”.

    I will say though, that it’s easily the most difficult filament I’ve ever had the displeasure of printing. It absolutely REFUSES to stick to literally anything but other polypropylene lol. What you do is just put some packing tape on your bed, that stuff’s made of PP as well.